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Published: 25 June 2024

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EPC is an acronym for Energy Performance Certicate, and yes, if you’re selling or letting a property in England and Wales then you need one, unless the property is:

• Listed (a general rule but not definitive so check for individual properties)
• Used for less than 4 months a year
• To be demolished
• Stond-alone with less than 50sqm of useful floor space, or
• A place of worship

EPC’s rank properties in terms of energy efficiency, from A to G – A being the most energy efficient. They also include information about the property’s energy use and costs, along with recommendations on how to improve it, showing the likely cost and savings of each measure.

EPC’s have been a legal requirement since 2008 and are valid for 10 years. If you’re selling or letting, you could be fined up to £5,000 if you don’t have one and under new government proposals, this would increase to £30,000 from 2025.

Estate and lettings agencies will arrange the EPC for you as they can’t market a property without it, but you can find a local accredited Domestic Energy Assessor and book an appointment directly if you so wish. Depending on the property, it will cost between £60 and £120.

The Energy Assessor will spend around an hour at the property and will consider its size, the type and amount of insulation that’s used, the heating system, windows, and lighting. You should get the report within a week.

Rental properties must have a minimum E rating, unless exemptions apply, but proposals will require a minimum of C for all new tenancies by 2025, and for all rental properties by 2028, where practical, cost-effective, and affordable.

For homeowners, there are currently no minimum rating requirements, but the lower the rating, the higher the energy bills, so as a buyer, it’s an important consideration. However, the government wants all homes to achieve at an EPC rating of least C by 2035 – again, where practical, cost-effective, and affordable.

If you’d like to arrange an EPC, or if you have any more questions, just give us a call!

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Published: 25 June 2024

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It’s great to be prepared with this, as it will avoid delays during the legal process.

Once you’ve found a conveyancer to handle your sale, they will ask you to complete a Property Information Form (TA6). For leasehold properties, there will also be a TA7 form. The information required is similar to that on an estate agent’s Property Information Questionnaire. You must complete these as honestly and accurately as possible with special attention to any ‘material facts’, which include things like a tendency to flooding, non-standard construction, party wall agreements, or anything else that may have a major impact on whether a buyer decides to purchase your home.

You’ll need some ID – by law this is required under Anti-Money Laundering regulations.

Next up, your Land Registry Title Deeds. If you can’t find your paper copies, check if your solicitor or lender has them. Alternatively, Land Registry holds digital records of most land and property so you should be able to order them online. The deeds are made up of a Title Register and a Title Plan, which you can order individually, or as part of a Comprehensive Pack, which also contains other documents and costs around £50. If your property isn’t registered, your conveyancer will need to apply for a first registration.

Your property can’t legally be marketed for sale without an EPC (Energy Performance Certificate). Your estate agent will normally arrange that for you as part of their service.

If your property is leasehold, you’ll need the lease and other documents relating to the service charges, buildings insurance, freeholder and managing agent information, etc. If yours has less than 80 years to run, you could look at extending it. Your conveyancer will help you with that.

If your property is under 10 years old, you’ll need your NHBC warranty documents.

If your property has undergone structural changes then you’ll need to evidence the planning permission and Building Regulations certificates, or indemnity policy documents.

And lastly, certification or warranties for any other alterations to the property, such as a gas safety certificate, an Electrical Installation Condition Report, and FENSA or CERTASS certification for windows, along with receipts or warranties for other work undertaken.

Gather all this together and you should be ‘sale ready’. Good luck and if you have any other questions, just give us a call on 01392 204800.

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Published: 25 June 2024

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All of these do fall under the umbrella of being ‘one of multiple, self-contained dwellings in a single building’. However, each has its own definition:

Flat – a flat consists of one level (flat) storey, accessed via a communal entrance. You may have also come across the term ‘purpose-built’ flat – this is a flat in a building that was built purposely as flats, whereas a ‘converted’ flat is the opposite – it sits in a building not originally intended as flats but converted at a later date.

Apartment – stemming from American English, an apartment is also accessed via a communal entrance but unlike a flat, can be split over two floors. They’re usually better appointed and considered more luxurious than a standard flat.

Maisonette – these are set over two floors and have their own access from the street, either directly or via a private outdoor staircase. Maisonettes don’t usually share communal areas and are often, but not always, larger than flats.

There are other variants too:

Bedsit – this is a single unit which typically shares a bathroom and sometimes a kitchen, with others who live within the building.

Studio flat – a studio flat is a self-contained, multi-purpose room in which the living, kitchen and bedroom areas occupy one space, with a separate bathroom.

Duplex apartment – another American English term describing what is essentially a maisonette with two floors, although generally used for more modern buildings.

Penthouse – the top floor of a building, often the most luxurious and the most expensive apartment/flat in the building.

There are some variations, for example, some single-level ‘flats’ are distinguished as maisonettes by having their own separate door to the outside, and in Scotland, a maisonette may also refer to a two-storey apartment with a common entrance – we would describe this as a split-level/duplex apartment.

If we can help any further, give us a call on 01392 204800, and good luck in finding your new home!

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Published: 20 May 2024

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Damp and mould can damage our health and properties, so this needs investigating. Sometimes, the cause can be linked to a structural element. 

Depending on the type of property and the position of the mould: check any chimneys are swept and appropriately capped; check your gutters, downpipes, internal pipes and roof for leaks; that your air bricks and damp course are above ground; and that surface water runs away from the house. Does any brickwork need re-pointing?

Other factors, however, could be the root cause.

Ultimately, mould grows in areas of high humidity or damp. Years ago, homes had floorboards, chimneys, and other ways for air to circulate. Nowadays, they’re air-tight with thick insulation, concrete floors, and super-efficient windows, and with the cost of energy we naturally don’t want to let our heated air out.

The trouble with this is that there’s nowhere for our water vapour to go. An average, modern family of four produces more than 24 pints a day by just living – breathing, cooking, showering, etc; bigger families and those with pets even more. Surprisingly, it can take bathrooms up to seven hours to dry after a shower!

So, we must regulate the moisture content in our homes to prevent excessive condensation.

One of the obvious ways ways to prevent any build-up is to always use an extractor or open windows when cooking or washing, but general ventilation is a must, particularly in places where the air can become stagnant – in fitted wardrobes, behind furniture, and in bedrooms without external vents. So, open windows regularly and encourage air circulation - move furniture away from walls and leave wardrobe doors open every now and then. Unpopular though it is, experts recommend we keep our heating on low to provide a constant background heat, thus walls never get cold enough to condensate.

There are certain house plants which can help, we’ll cover those later in the week.

Good luck in your investigation. If it’s a structural issue, I hope it’s an easy fix. If we can help any further, just give us a call on 01392 204800.